Culinary WHIRLED /WHIRL AFTER MIDNIGHT

WHIRL AFTER MIDNIGHT: How Sweet It Is

Meet a cold drink and a hot crowd at Dolce, where the sweetness comes with an edge.

By Nicole Barley I Photography by Megan Wylie

Laurence Biskin, Brian Downing, James Courtney, Carly Bonar, Katie McCabe

The long, silver-matte enveloped invitation is enticing. It beckons me to the SouthSide Works for the opening night of a new club. This evening, on the corner of Hot Metal and East Carson Streets, a red carpet snakes to the doors of Dolce. Curtains completely obscure the action happening inside, but outside, limousines, Ferraris, and classic cars line the curb as valets run to and fro for sets of keys.

Yum! Mango Mojito

Ice ice baby! A very dirty martini

Asharp-dressed man holds wide the front door and ushers me inside. I plunge into the crush of couples and cliques, chic in suits and little black dresses. The neon-splashed wall décor is dotted with glowing plastic molds of mock chandeliers and from the ceiling hangs the real thing, glittering gold and shimmering. Purple track lighting runs along the floor, and a deep amethyst hue permeates the rectangular area. Silky turquoise banquettes are snuggled into private platforms, nestled in corners all over the club, secluded but still situated in the midst of the action — very VIP-worthy, evidenced by the appearance of Pittsburgh Steelers Hines Ward and Casey Hampton. “This is a Las Vegas-style ultra lounge, a brand new concept to arrive in PIttsburgh, offering dinner and a nightclub,” says
Dolce’s Elias Hanna.

Ray Burgess, Hines Ward

The night club-restaurant venture serves lunch and dinner, and happy hour, Monday through Friday, from 5 to 7 p.m., includes wine, mixed drinks, and draft beers for $3, as well as half off the bar menu.

Dolce’s drink list seems as extensive as the long, elliptical, silver brushed-metal bar,stretched round with partiers. Sip a Captain and Coke, or try another one of the establishment’s must-haves, which also include Grey Goose Vodka, Crown Royal, and lots of Champagne. Or, order up a libation that is a little fancier, a tad trendier. Taste the Mango Mojito, a tall, thin tumbler filled with muddled handfuls of fresh mint. The Parrot Bay rum is piquant and sweet, just like the mango fruit juice.

Kyle McClure, Kyle Dunn, Stephanie Shook,
Katya Giovannetti

Surveying the bumping crowd, I also ascertain that the club favorite is clearly the martini. I stop a partier in the midst of raising a first swallow of the icy cold drink to his lips. The pale green liquid swirls about three substantial green olives in the inverted triangle of glass. It’s too pretty to not take a picture of. He obliges, setting down his very dirty gin martini of Tanqueray and olive juice.

Shawn Zvolensky, Danielle Delmonico, Gregory Mazzei

Of course, I don’t go so far as to ask for a sip and instead return to the bar, which is slightly more crowded than before, for a glass of my own. Behind the glitter-dotted countertop, the space is motoring with bartenders, multi-hued drinks multiplying at their fast-moving hands. Something signature is what I ask for, and bartender Kathi Gioventsis obliges my request. Ruby red black raspberry-flavored Chambord, strawberry vodka, a dash of Sprite, and a splash of cranberry juice, all shaken together and poured over plenty of ice, result in the perfectly sugary Kiss Goodnight. Tart, lightly fizzing, and gorgeously garnet in hue, it is, appropriately, a sweet one.

Dolce, SouthSide Works 2829 E. Carson St., South Side, 412.586.7422. thedolcelounge.com.

Strawberry Ginger Martini

INGREDIENTS:

2 ounces St. Germain Elderflower liquor
2 ounces Kettle One Vodka
½ ounce frozen strawberries, pureed
Splash of fresh lime juice
Splash of ginger syrup

Directions:

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, and pour into a frosted martini glass.


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