Culinary WHIRLED /WHIRL AFTER MIDNIGHT

Fancy That

What’s not to love? The Wine Loft’s got wine, cheese, and comfy couches galore.

By Nicole Barley | Photography by Megan Wylie

Pictured: Wine Loft owner Ashley Alessio

A sea of 16 glasses, each filled with deep plum or light gold liquid, lines our long rectangular table. Our group of eight has stopped by The Wine Loft right after work, and is seated in a circle of low-slung lounges and chairs, we are all leaning forward eagerly, unsure of where to begin. We’re cozy in a corner of the bar’s upper level, a swank-ily appointed, modern, and warmly lit space.

Our waitress returns once more with a tray full of the long-stemmed glasses, a selection of four drinks that includes a dry, very grapey Fire Station Shiraz and a French Chardonnay, Domaine De Martinollies, that’s fruity and mild, but nice and tart, too.

The Wine Loft stocks 320 wines by the bottle.

After lots of sipping and sharing, I’ve lost count of how many wines I’ve sampled. However, we collectively declare the Heavyweight Red Cabernet Sauvignon blend as the hit of the evening. Even the bottle’s label, we agree, is so cool. A carnival-esque faded cartoon of two sinewy, muscled boxers duking it out acts as a harbinger of the punchy fun awaiting inside the bottle. Someone in our crowd takes a sip and says it’s smoky. Another friend smartly offers that, “It tastes like a steak.” The word barbecue pops into my mind immediately.

We regard our summations of the wine’s no doubt more-nuanced flavor spectrum as somewhat amateur, however general manager Sean Bryne explains that the knockout red blend we like so much is indeed one of the Wine Loft’s heaviest and smokiest blends. It’s one of his favorites as well. To pick a best-liked wine from the ever-expanding list the establishment features is no small feat, I ascertain. He assures me this is most certainly the case. “It’s a hard job, but somebody’s got to do it,” he laughs.

Pictured: Jackie Bezeck

On the opposite end of the spectrum, we’re trying the Ironstone Obsession Symphony, a white, light dram from California. Bryne says it’s “the sweetest on the menu, almost like dessert.” It could easily be grouped into the same category as port, also available.

The selection of wines by the glass “keeps increasing every day,” he explains. During my visit, there are close to 100 varieties, and wines by the bottle number 300-plus. A glittering backdrop of bottles stands majestically behind the bar, the glass-enclosed wine rack stocked to the brim with bottles culled from countries around the world, including Australia and Argentina.

Pictured: Elizabeth & Alessio DeIuliis

Judging by the establishment’s name alone, it might seem easy and wise to eschew the Loft X-tini in lieu of a glass of grape. Don’t. It’s awesome. The lipstick red fizz of a drink mixes Skyy cherry vodka, pomegranate vodka, X-Rated Fusion liquor — a blend of French Vodka, blood orange, mango, and passion fruit juices — and a splash of Sprite and sours. You might be fooled by its sweet tart taste and girly presentation, garnished with a glistening maraschino cherry,but be forewarned. This is a serious martini — seriously good and strong.

In complement to the store of wine is a small plates menu, which naturally includes the beverage’s most popular pairing, baked Brie. The rich, buttery cheese is wrapped in a barely discernable layer of phyllo dough. “Every one orders this. You’re going to love it,” assures Executive Chef Cassie Lee.

Order the perfect wine-paired appetizer, baked brie.

Lee has also prepared crab cakes, made with her secret seasoning — “It’s my version of Old Bay,” she shares quietly — and topped with a caperberry remoulade. We also pass a platter of stuffed mushrooms around the chic couches we’re lazing on. Truffle oil and a balsamic vinegar reduction take thesimple dish to decadence.

We look to see there’s still plenty of wine left on the table, and so, we all float on before heading our separate ways for dinner.

The Wine Loft of Pittsburgh, SouthSide Works, 2773 Tunnel Blvd., South Side. 412.586.5335. thewineloftpittsburgh.com.


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